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Restaurant Review: Duck and Waffle, London

July 29, 2013

Mr B and I went to Duck and Waffle the other week. Here’s a few words and pictures to share our experience with you.

We negotiated a stern looking man with a clipboard who was herding people to either Sushi Samba, the Duck & Waffle bar, or the restaurant. A glass lift took us flying up to the 40th floor and

view Heron Tower Duck and Waffle London

Up in the lift to floor 40

a seat looking out over our capital as the sun down.

View of London from Heron Tower and Duck & Waffle

How far can you see?

As we waited to see what the kitchen would bring

Duck and waffle kitchen

chef at work

we tried to resist the urge to crane our necks and see what others are eating. We failed, and ended up ordering an extra dish – a garlic and rosemary foccacia.

Duck and waffle

The Duck and Waffle dining room

Dishes are either small sharing plates, or “for the table” which could be a main course if you wanted to be selfish, but it’s equally encouraged to share these amongst the table too. Because of this there is no order to the arrival of the food and items are served as they are ready.

First up for us was pearl barley & wild mushroom ragout with goat curd and 63 degree hen egg. I’m not certain that it was actually a 63degree egg, as I wouldn’t have expected it to be browned. That said, when the yolk melted into the nutty pearl barley making the grains stick together with the musky mushrooms and creamy curd – well, I wasn’t really thinking about the cooking temperature of the egg.

pearl barley & wild mushroom ragout with goat curd and 63 degree hen egg

Ragout

The imposing blue plate of the ragout was swiftly joined by a cheeky brown paper bag containing some bbq-spiced crispy pig ears

Crispy pig ears

Sealed with a quack (or an oink?)

and that garlic and rosemary foccacia bread, which was made to order. The pig ears were like superior pork scratchings, only with an intense savoury flavour and with just a little more chew to them thanks to the sinew of the ear.

Pig scratching rosemary and garlic foccacia bread

Crispy Pig Ears and Rosemary Foccacia

Next was the dish which had been recommended to me on twitter by  executive chef Daniel Doherty – Pollock meatballs with lobster cream and parmesan:

Pollock Meatballs Duck and Waffle

Pollock hidden under the crispy breadcrumbs

I should have taken some photos of the dish as we served it out, but I was too busy eating to care. Instead you will have to take my word for it that under the crumbly slightly crunchy topping lay a beautifully silky lobster cream and soft yet bouncy pollock meatballs with, I think, a touch of lemon zest that cut perfectly through the rich sauce.

Last of all, we had to have the eponymous crispy duck leg confit with fried duck egg and mustard maple syrup served on a waffle.

duck and waffle maple syrup

Duck and Waffle, the dish

The restaurant is open 24hours a day and  I imagine that this dish would make a great brunch item. For me it was the mustard in the maple syrup that pulled it all together – adding a touch of fire to an otherwise very sweet dish (not in a bad way). The duck leg was like eating Chinese crispy duck and fell apart as we tried to cut it. You can see from the photo how well the egg was cooked. Another great dish and one that sealed the fate of the desert menu never to make it past the ‘look with longing’ stage. There were a few pudding items that we’d have been more than happy to sample were it not for full stomachs and having had the sugary finish of the maple syrup to satisfy us anyway.

Other dishes that nearly made the cut were smoked cow ricotta /granola / honey / amalfi lemon and spicy ox cheek doughnut / apricot jam and lots of amazing sounding cocktails. Maybe one day…

Restaurants with a view have a reputation for overcharging and getting away with distinctly average food. This (and Galvin at Windows) seems to be an exception to the rule. Our meal came to £63 inc service and a bottle of water which, whilst hardly pocket money seemed like very good value, especially when you think that it would have cost us £50 for the view alone from the Shard.

This visit was was a celebration (new job) but we had wanted to go for a while – partly for the views, partly for the food and partly because Mr B Snr’s past employer helped build Heron Tower. Reservations are hard to come by, so thanks very much to Ashleigh of Girl About Town for helping us get a table. Her blog reviews all the best restaurants, night spots and events in London and the surrounding areas. Do go and have a read – that girl goes to the swankiest places (most of which are far too cool for me!) As usual, all views are my own and you can be doubley sure as this wasn’t a freebie – we went under our own steam and paid for it all ourselves.

ducka nd waffle gherkin london skyline

The view from Duck and Waffle’s bar

The view from my face 🙂

Duck and Waffle: 40th Floor, Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY. Closest tubes: Bank, Liverpool St

Also well worth a visit is the Drift bar at the base of Heron tower, though not on a busy summer’s evening – go on a Saturday lunchtime and it offers excellent service and good value.

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. July 29, 2013 11:38 am

    Wow thanks Gill – the Garlic & Rosemary bread looks interesting & very similar to Wright’s bread mix – if it was made quickly to order – it probably was – best wishes – Deb

  2. July 30, 2013 8:49 pm

    That looks amazing – I was wondering what that place was like. I’ll have to look at the menu though as unfortunately my boyfriend is very fussy and wouldn’t eat a single one of the things you mentioned!

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